I have a mold made now, and can cast metal sergal minis. Better pics incoming when I get the chance to sit down and paint one. Cast in lead free white metal.
Category Sculpting / Miscellaneous
Species Sergal
Size 1024 x 768px
File Size 593.5 kB
I mostly use greenstuff, but also procreate and apoxie sculpt for the originals. I tried doing things with resin and came to the conclusion of 'fuck resin.' This stuff's cast in a vulcanized rubber mold in a spin casting machine. Let me know if you wanna do any metal casting, I can definitely do contract casting pretty soon if it's something small enough. Hit me up on PM or something if you need more details.
Did I mention I hate resin?
Did I mention I hate resin?
Yeah sure! I actually should have a couple monster heads in resin by this evening but they're pretty large - I may have to do something specifically for this, but I'll hit you up at some point for specifics since I'm not sure what limitations there are with moldmaking for that.
Greenstuff is great. I have been wanting to try Apoxie Sculpt but haven't yet - I actually just got a big tub of Smooth-On's Free Form Air but haven't tried it just yet, but I think it's pretty similar. I was going to use it for teeth for masks since it's supposed to be pretty lightweight and sandable and such.
Resin can be a bitch. What troubles are you having with it, bubbles and such? Are you using a 1:1 resin-to-catalyst type? I think I read you were using Smooth-On's which I think is a 1:1. A friend was explaining those are more prone to bubbles because the need to stir in that much catalyst works a lot of air into it. I can imagine bubbles of any sort would be pretty devastating on this scale.
Greenstuff is great. I have been wanting to try Apoxie Sculpt but haven't yet - I actually just got a big tub of Smooth-On's Free Form Air but haven't tried it just yet, but I think it's pretty similar. I was going to use it for teeth for masks since it's supposed to be pretty lightweight and sandable and such.
Resin can be a bitch. What troubles are you having with it, bubbles and such? Are you using a 1:1 resin-to-catalyst type? I think I read you were using Smooth-On's which I think is a 1:1. A friend was explaining those are more prone to bubbles because the need to stir in that much catalyst works a lot of air into it. I can imagine bubbles of any sort would be pretty devastating on this scale.
yeah I was using smooth cast 300 for the resin, because it's what came with the stuff I got. Turns out you really need a pressure setup to do resin at this scale, yeah. It's a mess and pretty much every five miscasts I would get one good one. The problem with resin is I can't just re melt the miscasts.
The apoxie is pretty cool, it's nothing like the other epoxy putties I've used. It's actually kind of greasy and not sticky and it smells like really old corn chips that have gone bad. It dries hard and brittle, but if you mix in a little greenstuff it gets a lot stronger but keeps the hardness. After working with it for a while I actually like how sticky greenstuff is so I mostly use apoxie for bulking out stuff before doing the details. It ran through the vulcanizing process just fine, too.
The apoxie is pretty cool, it's nothing like the other epoxy putties I've used. It's actually kind of greasy and not sticky and it smells like really old corn chips that have gone bad. It dries hard and brittle, but if you mix in a little greenstuff it gets a lot stronger but keeps the hardness. After working with it for a while I actually like how sticky greenstuff is so I mostly use apoxie for bulking out stuff before doing the details. It ran through the vulcanizing process just fine, too.
Casting is casting, I'm guessing a typical 'spin mold' machine, traditional for small-scale casting, such as metal minis.
I was talking about the sculpting quality, you're up to 80's Ral Partha skill level, beats any sculpting I do out of the water.
With a little more practice, you might be able to get up to late 90's/early 00's Citadel Miniatures, but then you'd be pushing the limits on the detail you can get from the rubber molds and would need to move to more sophisticated equipment.
(I don't even count modern Citadel Minis as 'sculpting,' the minis are 'sculpted' with 3D software and automatically converted by computer into the multi-part mold designs, then the molds are milled out by CNC machines based on the computer design. The minis are beautiful and wonderfully detailed, but it's not fair to compare it to traditional sculpting.)
I was talking about the sculpting quality, you're up to 80's Ral Partha skill level, beats any sculpting I do out of the water.
With a little more practice, you might be able to get up to late 90's/early 00's Citadel Miniatures, but then you'd be pushing the limits on the detail you can get from the rubber molds and would need to move to more sophisticated equipment.
(I don't even count modern Citadel Minis as 'sculpting,' the minis are 'sculpted' with 3D software and automatically converted by computer into the multi-part mold designs, then the molds are milled out by CNC machines based on the computer design. The minis are beautiful and wonderfully detailed, but it's not fair to compare it to traditional sculpting.)
You'd be surprised, a good sculpt will reproduce faithfully in metal. I've seen some that you could see the extremely fine striations from the 3d print in the finished metal mini. Technically that is a fuck up and the person doing the casting should have sanded and cleaned up the print, but you can get extremely fine detail with vulcanized molds and metal. There's a reason most minis are still done in metal.
I tried to do the 3d thing, but I've only ever modeled for stuff like games, so I tend to make everything really low poly and can't get away from that.
I tried to do the 3d thing, but I've only ever modeled for stuff like games, so I tend to make everything really low poly and can't get away from that.
With the right equipment, you can get a faithful reproduction, but most 'spin casting' done in the mid-late 80's was on older equipment, and the rubber molds were used for about 200-300% of its 'service life,' and all the good copies at the start were almost impossible to find.
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