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People often start printing by ABS with no cooling. While this is valid advice for unenclosed printers, it's not a universal rule. **ABS often needs some cooling, especially in an enclosure.**
@@ -66,7 +66,7 @@ People often start printing by ABS with no cooling. While this is valid advice f
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### Give Objects Some Break Time Between Layers
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- You can achieve this by printing more objects at once, and spreading them out.
- This allows each object some "break time" between layers. Otherwise you are pumping more and more heat into the object before the previous layer has had a chance to fully solidify.
Copy file name to clipboardExpand all lines: articles/determining_max_volumetric_flow_rate.md
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- This means that you can change layer heights, nozzle sizes, line widths, and speeds without worrying about outrunning your hotend.
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- You can also set any print speeds to a high "absolute maximum" speed (like infill) and let it be limited by the volumetric flow limit. This essentially prints at the maximum speed your hotend will allow:
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- This is utilized by my published SuperSlicer profile (see its [:page_facing_up: "Volumetric Speed Limiting"](https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Ellis-SuperSlicer-Profiles#volumetric-speed-limiting) section for more information.)
-:warning:**In Prusa Slicer, this must be set in the filament settings instead.** The setting in the "auto speed" section only applies in specific circumstances in PS.
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## Approximate Values
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- ABS typically achieves high flow rates. Other materials may cap out at a lower flow rate.
- Cura [:page_facing_up: has not yet added this feature](https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/5248). You will have to manually determine your max print speeds for each line width / layer height using the formulas above. You may need different profiles for different materials/temps (or just use a moderate default).
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@@ -155,7 +155,7 @@ Stephan from CNC Kitchen did some flow rate testing. He has a great article and
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I don't want to steal his work, so here's an artist's rendition:
Copy file name to clipboardExpand all lines: articles/determining_motor_currents.md
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- Some multimeters come with a k-type thermocouple. You can kapton tape it to the motor housing.
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-*You cannot accurately gauge this by feel.* Even lower temperatures will feel "too hot".
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- The motors themselves can generally handle much more. This temp limit comes from the printed parts rather than the motors themselves.
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## Determining `hold_current`
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Recently, Klipper docs have started to [:page_facing_up: recommend against using a separate `hold_current`.](https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/pull/4977) You can achieve this by commenting out `hold_current`, or by setting it to the same value as your `run_current`.
In this example, I chose the second cube, as this particular filament started to look nice and shiny with no gapping. Your particular filament may not shine like this.
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For clarity, you are **not** tuning so the lines are "just touching".\
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Your infill lines should overlap a bit, and **fill the print in as much as possible without going over**.
**When assessing extrusion multiplier, *always* look at the widest areas in a given print.**
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It's fairly normal for [:page_facing_up: smaller infill areas to look a bit overextruded](./troubleshooting/small_infill_areas_overextruded.md)*(though there are a few things that can help a bit in that link- that's another topic)*
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In this example, I would look at the circled area. While some of the smaller areas look overextruded, the overall EM is actually pretty good.
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