So after a whole con of programming and tweaking, this is the end result at the dead dog dance at VancouFur 2015.
Thanks to
alexihusky for programming and filming this bit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-VBrKBblTE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-VBrKBblTE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-VBrKBblTE
Suit specs:
201 NeoPixel WS2812b LEDs
Teensie 3.1 Microcontroller (Arduino) with OCTO2811 Board to drive the LEDs
20Amp DC to DC SBEC 5v converter
Two 2200 3S lipo's in series with a 10A fuse in a lipo safe bag.
3 Buttons to control the suit, 2 in paws, 1 on back of right paw.
10 Meters of servo wire to connect everything together.
Thanks to
alexihusky for programming and filming this bit.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-VBrKBblTE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-VBrKBblTE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-VBrKBblTE
Suit specs:
201 NeoPixel WS2812b LEDs
Teensie 3.1 Microcontroller (Arduino) with OCTO2811 Board to drive the LEDs
20Amp DC to DC SBEC 5v converter
Two 2200 3S lipo's in series with a 10A fuse in a lipo safe bag.
3 Buttons to control the suit, 2 in paws, 1 on back of right paw.
10 Meters of servo wire to connect everything together.
Category Fursuiting / All
Species Dog (Other)
Size 1280 x 720px
File Size 147.3 kB
What would be awesome is if you could coordinate with one of the DJs at a con to get a copy of the music before it's released. If you can get that, you could design a lighting sequence for a particular song or two in the mix. I have to say that you did a good job on this. You obviously have more money than me since I have trouble scraping together the money for only a foot of servo wire for my T-copter. Another thing you might be able to do is find a volunteer and integrate a radio transceiver into your control, build another suit, then have coordinated lighting patterns. I would be interested in seeing the code you used on this just to see how it works.
Well actually.... lol....... everything you mentioned is on the drawing board atm. AlexiHusky is going to build his own LED suit, but differently. but will still use Arduino. And another friend of mine is building a wearable vest with 300+ neopixels in a matrix... So when we are all together, we could share sequences and patterns. Maybe via Bluetooth or IR, we haven't decided on the signal type yet.
As for music coordination, well I plan on eventually having files saved on a SD card with common songs and a memorized queue to start the sequence. Thats far into the future and would require a crazy amount of brain power and time. But what the reality of it is now, is we are having our con happening shortly... FurEh. I'm going to enter the talent show/masquerade and do a quick 2 minute intro to the suit with a tron track, I'm still trying to find the right track, but tonight I found this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXPAWvHIrfc
Starting at 2:12
Think it has lots of potential.
As for money, well, honestly, I got most of my stuff from HobbyKing. Uber cheap hobby components. Like Servo wire for .99c a meter. Or a 20amp SBEC that takes 6-60v to 5v for $14 bux. I bought 10 meters of LEDs for $147. Thats 600 LEDs total. Suit only used 201, lol. I already had the batteries for my Tricopter/T-Rex/Foamy planes.
Anyway, thanks for the advice, stay posted for new updates. :3
As for music coordination, well I plan on eventually having files saved on a SD card with common songs and a memorized queue to start the sequence. Thats far into the future and would require a crazy amount of brain power and time. But what the reality of it is now, is we are having our con happening shortly... FurEh. I'm going to enter the talent show/masquerade and do a quick 2 minute intro to the suit with a tron track, I'm still trying to find the right track, but tonight I found this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXPAWvHIrfc
Starting at 2:12
Think it has lots of potential.
As for money, well, honestly, I got most of my stuff from HobbyKing. Uber cheap hobby components. Like Servo wire for .99c a meter. Or a 20amp SBEC that takes 6-60v to 5v for $14 bux. I bought 10 meters of LEDs for $147. Thats 600 LEDs total. Suit only used 201, lol. I already had the batteries for my Tricopter/T-Rex/Foamy planes.
Anyway, thanks for the advice, stay posted for new updates. :3
Sounds like you think a lot like me with these projects. If I were you, I would check out the xbee (lol my phone just tried to autocorrect that as "cheese") radios. They're well supported, relatively cheap, and able to get decent ranges. I would avoid IR as much as possible since it can be blocked by sunlight or even bright stage lights. Bluetooth might work and can be used to communicate with a phone running an app to control the sequences, but it has an increased latency compared to xbee. One thing I've thought would be cool to build for one of these competitions is a small platform that is only about two inches thick And driven using brushless motors strong enough to drive me around a con. I would control it using a gyro in a glove and power it with lipo batteries similar to the ones I use in my erevo brushless. I actually buy most of my stuff from hobbyking because of their lower prices. I wish they would be a bit more open about the software on their boards and the specs for their motors, but I guess you get what you pay for.
Thing with a gyro in your hand to control something big like a platform in a busy space such as a con is that you gotta be careful where you hand is at all times. I think it'd be better to grab a gimbal from adafruit and control with your thumb. Many years ago I did a project where I made a 3ft cube box move. The lady who wanted me to do it for her wanted to put a plant in it and have it 'follow' her as she walked down street sidewalks, so I took apart a old aircraft cheap radio, cut down the gimble on it so its almost flush and mated it to a 2ch surface transmitter board and shinkwrapped it all together. Wish I had pics of the build, but that was before cellphone cameras and small digital cameras, lol.
Anyway, If you look in the comments in hobbyking, people usually post specs on things. I really like the community support it has. If not, you could also find it in the files tab.
I might try using RF for the communication, I'll look into xbee(cheese) :3
Anyway, If you look in the comments in hobbyking, people usually post specs on things. I really like the community support it has. If not, you could also find it in the files tab.
I might try using RF for the communication, I'll look into xbee(cheese) :3
I've thought about using those flex sensing variable resistors to work as a gimbal that is built into a glove. It could be activated when holding your hands in a fist to push a button in the palm, then control it by using a thumbs up gesture. If I had one while I was making my Clunksuit head, I would have made the jaw operation controlled by a flex sensor in some heat shrink pressed against my chin.
That is an unusual request for a potted plant. I wonder what condition it's in now.
In my opinion, hobby king's community is pretty knowledgeable about the various products, but they take a long time to respond to any questions if they ever actually do. Maybe I'm just asking the questions nobody wants to answer, but I just don't see a very large community there. I mainly stay on RCGroups when I have to ask for help or suggestions, but I also reach out to completely unrelated sites (like here) at times when I know somebody else might have similar experiences.
If I had to go with a particular radio for the suits you are working on, I would probably use the "cheese" radio. They can work in a transparent mode where the arduinos only recognize it as a serial cable connected from one device to the other or they can work in mesh networks where several radios talk to each other to send data to just one radio or all radios in range. That alone makes it better than Bluetooth since Bluetooth only supports a serial connection between two devices. On top of all that, they can also work in a stand-alone mode where it takes the role of a very limited microcontroller that can act as an input and output for analog and digital then send the inputs through the radio and receive commands. They're not too expensive either and the arduino fio was actually designed to replace the USB cord with a pair of cheesebees and a TTL converter.
That is an unusual request for a potted plant. I wonder what condition it's in now.
In my opinion, hobby king's community is pretty knowledgeable about the various products, but they take a long time to respond to any questions if they ever actually do. Maybe I'm just asking the questions nobody wants to answer, but I just don't see a very large community there. I mainly stay on RCGroups when I have to ask for help or suggestions, but I also reach out to completely unrelated sites (like here) at times when I know somebody else might have similar experiences.
If I had to go with a particular radio for the suits you are working on, I would probably use the "cheese" radio. They can work in a transparent mode where the arduinos only recognize it as a serial cable connected from one device to the other or they can work in mesh networks where several radios talk to each other to send data to just one radio or all radios in range. That alone makes it better than Bluetooth since Bluetooth only supports a serial connection between two devices. On top of all that, they can also work in a stand-alone mode where it takes the role of a very limited microcontroller that can act as an input and output for analog and digital then send the inputs through the radio and receive commands. They're not too expensive either and the arduino fio was actually designed to replace the USB cord with a pair of cheesebees and a TTL converter.
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