HOLLANDER’S

Casing-In Text Blocks

Bookbinding Instructions

by Tom and Cindy Hollander

For use with ready to case-in text blocks:

• blank journals An easy to follow, step by
• lined journals step, instruction booklet for
• guest books making a hard case to cover
a book. Select text block,
• address books decorative paper, and book
• photo albums cloth. Tools and supplies
• and others required are minimal.

Approximate Time to Complete Kit: 3 – 4 hours

HOLLANDER’S — 410 N Fourth Ave — Ann Arbor, MI — 48104

734-741-7531 — Website: www.hollanders.com
 Hollander’s Casing-In (Bookbinding) Instructions
The instruction booklet is intended to be used with Hollander’s text block kits, but it can also be used as a stand
alone instruction manual. It is recommended that you read through the instructions completely before
beginning. Be sure to also review the tips on the last page of the booklet. Text blocks and supplies are
available through Hollander’s.

Supplies & Materials Included: Supplies & Materials Needed: Other Items Needed:
• Binder’s Board • Decorative Papers • Wax Paper
• Text Block • Bookcloth • Sharp Pencil
• Spine • PVA Glue • Scrap Paper
• 1/4” Guide Stick • Scissors • Damp Wash Cloth
• Headbands • Bone Folder • Paper Towels
• Glue Brush • Heavy Book or Weight
• Metal Ruler with 1/16 marks
• Cutting Mat
• X-acto Knife

Part I. Measuring and Cutting

Bookcloth
Book Board
The type of binding in this booklet is called a quarter
binding because one quarter of the cover or case is Text Block
bookcloth. The calculations below will work for any size
textblock. You can devise your own formulas depending
on whether you want to have more or less bookcloth Spine
Decorative Paper
showing on the cover.

Step 1. Using a ruler, measure the width and height of the text block, rounding to the nearest 1/16”. Fill in the
dimensions in Step 3 below.

Step 2. Measure the spine thickness of the text block, using the following method: Use a thin strip of scrap paper
and wrap tightly over the width of the spine, creasing the paper sharply at the two spine edges. Mark these creas-
es with a pencil and measure the distance between them with a ruler. This method is preferred because it in-
creases accuracy and also is helpful for measuring slightly rounded spines, such as those on the photo album
blocks. Fill in spine thickness dimensions in Step 3 below.

Step 3. Fill in Text Block Dimensions _______ (width) x _______ (height) x _______ (spine thickness)
example 4 3/4” 6 1/2” 5/8”

If using a kit with pre-cut board and spine pieces, skip to step 8. If cutting your own board continue with
Steps 4—7.

Step 4. For the book board cut two pieces with grain running long. To determine measurements:
Width = same width as text block. Height = same height as text block plus 1/4”.

Step 5. Fill in Book Board Dimensions _______ (width) x _______ (height)

example 4 3/4” 6 3/4”

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Step 6. For the spine, use a stiff paper (a paper heavier than a text
weight; i.e. manila folder ). Cut the spine so that grain is running long.
Measurement should be the width as determined in Step 2 and the height
of the book board as determined in Step 4.

Step 7. Fill in Spine Dimensions _______ (width) x _______ (height)

example 5/8” 6 3/4”

Step 8. For the decorative papers, cut two pieces. To determine the
measurements, follow these steps: (It will help to use a calculator.)
• For width, first convert the width of the board to the nearest .25 (round up). ex. convert 4 3/4” to 4.75”.
• Divide this number by 4; and then multiply it by 3. ex. 4.75” ÷ 4 = 1.18”; 1.18” x 3 =3.56”
• Round this number to the nearest 1/4”. ex. 3.56” = 3 1/2”
• Add 3/4” ex. Width = 3 1/2” + 3/4” or 4 1/4”
• For height, add 1 1/2” to the height of the board. ex. Height = 6 3/4” + 1 1/2” or 8 1/4”

Step 9. Fill in Decorative Paper Dimensions _______ (width) x _______ (height)

example 4 1/4” 8 1/4”

Step 10. For the bookcloth, cut one piece. Cut the spine so that grain is running long. To determine the
measurements follow these steps:
• For width, divide the width of the book board by two. ex. 4.75” ÷ 2 = 2.375”
• Round up to the nearest 1/4”. ex. 2.375” = 2 1/2”
• Add this measurement (2 1/2”) to the width of the spine plus 1” ex. 2 1/2” + 5/8” + 1” = 4 1/8”
• For height, add 1 1/2” to the height of the board. ex. 6 3/4 + 1 1/2 = 8 1/4” (same measurement as height of
the decorative paper)

Step 11. Fill in Bookcloth Dimensions _______ (width) x _______ (height)

example 4 1/8” 8 1/4”

Part II. Gluing the Case

Step 1. Using a ruler, on the back of the bookcloth (the side to be glued), find the
midpoint along the width. Draw a line in pencil down the center.

mid-point The mid-point in the example would be 2 1/16”.

Step 2. Apply glue to the spine and set on the bookcloth so that it is centered, visually
on the drawn line, both top and bottom and side to side.

Step 3. Cut the 1/4” Guide Stick (included with the kit) into two pieces and use for the next step. The Guide Stick
will assure the gap between the spine and the book board is correct. If you do not have a guide stick, use a ruler
to accurately measure the 1/4” gap between the spine and the board and mark the gap on the bookcloth with your
pencil.

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 Step 4. Glue half the length of the book cloth, up to the spine. Place
the Guide Sticks so that it is against the spine. Place the book board
next to the spine allowing for a gap of 1/4” between the two.

After gluing the board down, quickly remove the Guide Sticks.

Note: Make sure to remove the scrap paper after

gluing and before placing boards on bookcloth.

Repeat this step to attach the other board to the bookcloth.

Step 5. Apply glue to the top and bottom of the bookcloth. Turn in the
bookcloth over the top and bottom edges and press down onto the inside
of the cover board and across the spine.

Be sure to keep the bookcloth snug along the edge as you turn-in.

Use your fingers and/or bone folder to press the bookcloth down into the
grooves to assure there is good contact on both sides of the board.

Step 6. On the front of the case, measure from the fore-edge of

the board, towards the bookcloth, so that it overlap the book-
cloth by about 1/4”.

Note the distance to the fore-edge of the board. Place a light

pencil mark at the top and bottom of the bookcloth at this mark
and on both sides of the case.

Use this measurement to keep the distance consistent and as

guide marks for placing the decorative paper in position on both
sides of the cover.

In the example, and shown in the picture, the measurement is

3 1/2” from the fore-edges.

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 Step 7. Glue one of the decorative papers onto the cover.
Position so that it is just overlapping the two guide marks on
the book cloth. Smooth the paper out on the board.
light pencil guide marks
When placed in position, there will be approxoximately 3/4”
over hang on the fore-edge and two side edges of the book
board.

1/8” between board and cut.

Step 8. Turn the book over and miter (cut) the two corners using a scissors.
Cut the corners at a 45 degree° leaving a slight gap between the corner of
the board and the cut line. This distance should be approximately 1/8”.

Turn-in short sides.

Step 9. Turn in the two short sides of the decorative paper by bringing them
up and over the edge of the board and press down on the inside of the book
board.

Step 10. At the two mitered corners, tuck the paper down and slightly inward
Tuck in corner.
before bringing the long piece up and over the fore-edge of the cover.

Step 11. Repeat steps 6 – 10 with your other decorative

paper.

Note: If you are using a paper with a specific direction or

pattern, make sure you review how you are going to place
the papers on the book board so that one is not flipped upside
down when the book is closed.

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Attaching Headbands: Optional (A variety of headband colors are available from Hollander’s.)
If you decide to attach headbands, attach them to the spine of the text block at this
point, before it is cased in. (The photo albums have headbands already attached.)

Step 1. Cut two headbands, both each about 1/2” wider than the thickness of the
spine of the text block.

Step 2. With the bead or cap facing towards the front edge of the book, glue to the
back of the spine so that only the top of the headband is showing over the top edge of
the text block. It should over-hang along the side edges by about 1/4”. Glue to both
the head and tail (top and bottom of the spine) of the text block.

Step 3. Let dry for a few minutes and then trim with a sharp
scissors so that both sides are flush with the edge of the text
block.

Step 4. Check that they are even or parallel to the top of the text block before preceding.

Part III. Casing in the Text Block

If using a photo album as your text block, it is recommended that you follow
the steps for making a Hollow Back Tube. These are found on pages 8 and
9. At this point, turn to those instructions before you return to this page.

Step 1. Set the text block inside the case, centered between the covers as if Fore-edge margin
the book was completed. The text block should be recessed evenly from the
3 edges of the case by about 1/8”.

Note: With the covers closed, the text block should fit tightly against the
spine so that there is no space between the spine of the case and the spine
of the text block. Mentally visualize and note the fore-edge margin in relation to the fore-edge of the book
board. This margin should be matched when casing-in Step 3.

Step 2. Open the cover and insert a piece of scrap paper

between the first page (called an end sheet) and the second page of the
text block. Apply glue to the entire end sheet, including over the reinforce-
ment tape. Carefully remove the scrap paper.

Note for the Photo Album Blocks Only: A mesh reinforcement

material called “super” has already been applied to the spine. When gluing
in this step, apply glue first under the “super”, then press the super onto the
end sheet. Continue gluing the rest of the end sheet.

Being neat while gluing is important. Be sure to cover the entire end sheet with glue, but be careful not to apply
too much glue. You want to avoid glue oozing along the edges when end sheet is attached to the inside cover.

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 Step 3. Pick up the two front corners of the glued end sheet and
attach to the inside cover of the book board using the fore–edge
margin as was evident in Part III, Step 1. You will need to bring the
cover towards you to meet the end sheet.

Step 4. Once lined up, press the paper in place along the top half of
the end sheet only.

Step 5. At this point, turn the book around so that the cover with
the glued end sheet is now lying flat on the table. While holding
up the text block with one hand, press down the end sheet with
the other, working your fingers toward the folded edge against the
spine.

Step 6. Keep the book in the same position as you finished

Step 5, and repeat Steps 2 - 5 with the other end sheet. When
attaching the second end sheet to the inside cover, the angle of
the cover will need to be slightly lower because one side has
already been attached.

Step 7. Insert wax paper cut slightly larger than the end sheet between the
covers and the first page of the text block.

Note: The wax paper between the end sheet and the first page of the text block
serves two purposes. It prevents moisture from coming through the cover and
being absorbed by the first few pages of the text block and it also prevents the
second page from sticking to the cover if glue oozes out after the book is
closed and pressed.

Step 8. With the covers now closed, using the bone folder, apply
pressure by pressing along the edge of the board along the length of
the spine. At the same time, with the bone folder, apply pressure
downward on the 1/4” gap to help. It helps to stand up to increase
the amount of pressure applied.

Note: Avoid rubbing the bone folder back and forth, marring the cloth;
instead move it in short increments, slowly, while applying pressure
along the edge of the board and spine.

Do this several times, turning on both sides of the book cover.

Step 9. Place a heavy book or a weight on your completed book. Keep the wax paper in place during the drying
period. Heavy weights and a complete drying period help prevent the covers from bowing and assure that the
book is securely cased-in. Let dry overnight.

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Instructions for Making a Hollow Back Tube (This style is recommended with a
thicker, or rounded spine such as our Italian Photo Albums text blocks.)

Step 1. Use measurement of the spine as you found in Part 1 Step 2. Keep the same height measure-
ment but multiply the width measurement by 3. Note: If measuring a text block with headbands, do
not include the portion that sits above the textblock.

Step 2. Cut a piece of thin kraft paper (a thin text paper will suffice) the height of the spine of the text
block by the 3 times the width as measured in Step 1. The grain of the paper should run the length of
the spine. Note: Kraft paper can come from a paper bag.

Step 3. Fold the kraft paper length wise into three equal
parts, creating a tri fold.

Step 4. Turn over so that you can glue the back center third and attach it
to the spine. It should be lined up between the caps of the headbands
and centered on the spine.

Step 5. Open up and smooth out along the spine, with your fingers
first, then using the bone folder to remove any wrinkles.

Step 6. Close one flap and insert a piece of scrap paper under the
flap. Carefully glue the top flap, remove the scrap paper, and place
the second flap on top of the glued flap, thus creating a hollow tube.

Press down to assure good contact. Make sure no glue oozes into
the tube causing it to stick together. If it does, use an x-acto knife to
carefully open it back up.

With pages open, hollow back should pop-up as shown here

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To case in a text block with a hollow back, follow these steps:

1. Set the text block between the covers so that the spine of the text
block is sitting tight against the spine of the case — as if the book was
completed.

The text block should be recessed evenly from the three edges of the
covers by about 1/8” (along the head, tail and fore edges).

Step 2. Before gluing the spine onto the case, open the
case and place the spine of the text block on the spine of
the case.

Carefully center the text block spine on the case spine,

making sure you can visually see an even space on both
sides and at the head and tail.

You should also see the 1/4” gap between the spine and
the book board on both sides of the text block.

This is an important step to be accurate, so it is good to test the placement before actually gluing.

Step 3. Pick up the text block and apply glue to the hollow
back tube on the spine. Be careful not to apply too heavy,
especially around the opening at each end.

Now repeat Step 2, this time placing enough pressure to make

contact with the spine.

Step 4. Close the covers around the text block, then pick it up in your hands. With your fingers, apply
pressure along the spine while at the same time push in on the fore edge with your thumb. See the image
in Step 1. image Imagine you are giving the book the shape it will eventually have when completed.

Step 5. Lay the book on the table and use the bone folder along the edge
of the board and the spine gap to define and help tighten that line.

Step 6. Continue the Casing in steps from Part III, beginning with Step 2
on page 6.

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 HOLLANDER’S HELPFUL TIPS

1. Plan out your work in advance. Have your tools and supplies handy and keep your work area clean. Always
have a damp cloth and paper towels handy to keep fingers clean.

2. When cutting, always measure carefully. A good motto to remember is “measure twice, cut once; measure
once, cut twice”.

3. When gluing, always brush the glue from the center out towards the edges. Glue on scrap paper, such as old
copy paper or telephone directory pages. Hold the piece down firmly to prevent shifting and getting glue on the
“good” side of the paper. Remember to remove scrap paper after gluing.

4. Machine made papers will curl when glued. Use a damp cloth on the back to wet the paper before applying glue
to help “relax” it. If you don’t, be prepared to hold down the paper for a few seconds until the paper “relaxes”.

5. Most papers should be glued first, before adhering them to boards. This allows the glue to “stretch” the
paper, eliminating wrinkles. Board may be glued first, but only when applying it to the bookcloth, not to paper.

6. Some bookcloths have a tendency to curl after they are glued, but unlike paper, do not “relax”. Be prepared to
work quickly, especially with larger pieces of cloth. Clothespins or a similar small weights may be used to prevent
the bookcloth from curling. Bookcloth without a paper backing, should be glued on the shiny or darker side.

7. When using our PVA glue you may dilute it slightly (5% or less) with water. This allows you to spread it a little
easier. With some heavier papers you might want to use undiluted glue.

8. Be sure to re-glue areas of paper or bookcloth that dry or appear to be close to drying. If it gets too dry, the
paper will not adhere to the board very well. Be careful not to over glue when adding a little more.

9. An x-acto knife can be used as a tool for touching up small unglued areas. Place a small amount of glue
on the blade and slide it under the unglued area. Usually this works well in areas where the corners have been
mitered or in other hard places to reach with a brush.

10. Work with a good quality scissors. We recommend one with a sharp point and one that will cut through glued
paper and bookcloth easily. Keep your scissors clean!

11. Most corners should be mitered at a 45 degree angle. Most cuts should be cut a distance of about 1/8” from
the board or a distance of 1 1/2 times the thickness of the board. If the cut is too close to the corner, the board will
not be covered completely. If it is cut too far away, the corner will be bulky.

12. After mitering the corners, pinch the paper or bookcloth down and slightly inward before folding the edges over.
If forgotten, a small piece may stick out from the corner.

13. Round or tap the corners with the bone folder. This will help reduce the sharpness. Also, you can use your
finger (or the bone folder) to press down mitered cuts, into corners and along the edges. Avoid rubbing the bone
folder over papers to smooth out wrinkles, as this will usually mar the paper.

14. Put a weight on all flat pieces and allow to dry for several hours or overnight. Heavy books work well. If a piece
is slightly bowed after drying, gently bow it back the other way a few times.

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