Front and back side of fabric
The
front side (also known as the “face” or “right side”) of the fabric is the side that is meant to be seen. The
back side (also known as the “wrong side”) is thus the side that will be hidden.
It’s very important to tell the two apart since, unless specified,
the vast majority of sewing projects are sewn with the front sides facing each other (or “right sides together”). This is so that when the final project is flipped inside out to hide the stitches, the front side will be properly displayed.
It’s easy to tell front from back on patterned fabrics as the back will be less vibrant, but other uniform textiles like felt sometimes don’t have a difference between the two so it doesn’t matter which one is which in that case.
Sewing patterns
Not to be confused with fabric patterns (like polkadots or stripes),
sewing patterns are templates that are used to piece together fabrics. They're somewhat comparable to an unfolded net of a polyhedron in that they break down a sewn object into its flat 2D parts. Sewing patterns are usually made of or printed onto paper, and then traced onto the back side of the final fabric.
Patterns will often denote 'mirror' or 'x(some number)'.
Mirroring in a pattern means to cut ultimately 2 pieces that are exactly opposite each other, such as one left leg and one right leg, while
x(some number) simply means to cut that many pieces. I demonstrate an easy way to mirror pieces in the
simple dragon sewing guide.
More professional sewing patterns will have other symbols and terminology, but I won't cover those here since it's unlikely that fledgeling hobbyists will encounter them.
Seam allowance
The
seam allowance is the space between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line/seam. Without seam allowances, the raw edges of joined fabrics will be frayed and messy once they’re flipped.
Make sure to check if your sewing pattern already includes a seam allowance. If not, you will need to add the allowance when you cut your fabric.
For stiffer fabrics, the seam allowance is sometimes trimmed after being sewn so the final reversed result is more malleable.
Parts of a needle and thread
Threading a needle
There are many methods of threading needles! I will cover two here.
Option 1:
To thread a needle, prepare the starting end of your thread by snipping it with a sharp pair of scissors. Frayed ends are nigh-impossible to thread!
With the needle in your non-dominant hand, pass the thread through the eye and pull it through. Many people may lick the tip of the thread or dip it in a droplet of water to help hold the fibers together.
Option 2:
Fold a small section of thread over the needle and pull it taut. Pinch the thread between your thumb and forefinger, then remove the needle. Keep your fingers pinched over the folded thread so that only a small tip of it is exposed. Then, lower the eye of the needle over the tip until it passes through.
If you’ve never threaded a needle before, you may want to practice with a larger needle (with a larger eye) before attempting finer needles.
Alternatively, self-threading needles can help you thread a needle. I've personally not used one yet, but they could definitely be a time-saver!
(image source unknown)
Length of thread
How long you want your thread to be depends on what you’re sewing, but a general rule of thumb is that it should be as long as your arm. As you sew more, you’ll begin to intuit how much thread you’ll need.
For double-threaded needles (more on that later), I highly recommend keeping the thread shorter to reduce risk of tangling, especially for beginners.
How start a single thread
Once you have your needle threaded, set aside one portion of thread about 15cm long. Then, gripping the needle and thread, prepare about an arms-length of thread from the spool and cut it.
You should now have something like this:
There are many ways to tie knots in thread, but I recommend the following for beginners:
The ‘x’ method
Cross a portion of the long end of thread around your finger in a loop, creating an 'x'. Then, using your thumb, scrunch the thread through the loop and pull it tight into a knot.
Simple loops
Cross a portion of the long end of thread into a loop. Then, pull the end of the thread through the loop you just created and pull it taut. Repeat once or two more times for a larger knot, pulling slowly to position the knot over your previous knot(s).
This method is a little tricky and takes a bit more time, so it's not my preferred method.
Now you have your single thread! This is a great all-purpose thread for sewing, but doesn’t hold up too well to tension or areas under stress. For that, I recommend a double thread.
(of course, your thread should be much longer than this!)
How to start a double thread
Once you have your needle threaded, keep the loop on the needle. With the original end, prepare about an arms-length of thread from the spool and cut it in line with the original end.
You should now have something like this:
Tie a knot in the thread using either the x method or simple loops, like with the single thread.
Now you have your double thread! Double threads are excellent when you need extra strength in your sewing, like when attaching buttons or joints that will be under tension.
It’s my preferred all-purpose thread because I don’t need to worry about the thread slipping through the eye, but that’s just personal preference.
(of course, your thread should be much longer than this!)
How to sew a running stitch
Ah, the running stitch. Ubiquitous in hand sewing for its simplicity. The running stitch is useful for basic seams, and is generally what I use for all my plushies that aren’t sewn on a machine or when I don’t have the time to use a
back stitch. The more frequent the stitches, the stronger the seam will generally be.
Every time after you poke the needle through the fabric, be sure to pull the thread all the way through and taut before starting your next stitch.
I’m right-handed, and I strongly prefer sewing from right to left. I hold the needle in my right hand and use the pad of my left pointer finger and thumb to pinch the fabric ahead of my seams and guide the needle through my pattern lines. It pretty much all boils down to a matter of personal taste and ergonomics, though, so adjust to whatever feels most comfortable for you.
Work slowly and carefully if you’ve never sewn before - there is plenty of time to master this stitch :]
How to sew a ladder stitch
The ladder stitch (also known as the “invisible” or “slip” stitch) is perfect for closing up stuffed items like plushies or pillows and joining parts like plushie limbs. Ladder stitches are completely hidden when they're finished, so I very highly recommend mastering this stitch if you’d like to sew more plushies in the future.
This guide by Mindy Makes is the best tutorial I've read that teaches the ladder stitch and explains it better than I ever could. Take a look, and feel free to ping me if you have any questions!
Tying off (finishing sewing)
Once you're finished sewing, you will need to secure your handiwork with a sturdy knot before cutting the thread loose.
Make sure you leave at least 2-3 inches of thread to tie off with, otherwise it will be quite difficult!
There are many ways to tie off, but here are the methods I use the most often.
Singe or double-threaded needle
On your last stitch, push the needle about a third of the way through the fabric. Holding it there, loop the thread tightly around the the needle two or three times.
Push the needle through the rest of the way and pull it taut, guiding the knot down the thread with your finger as you slowly pull until it rests flush against the fabric. Once it's taut, you may cut the thread.
I really like this method and find it to be the quickest way to tie off!
Double-threaded needle
After your last stitch, cut the thread so that you have about 3 inches remaining still attached to your project.
Split the two threads and take one in each hand. Tie a simple overhand knot and pull it taut until the knot rests against the fabric. Repeat two or three times before trimming the tail.
General advice
- When pulling threads through fabric, you want the threads to lie flat, but (for the purposes of making plushies) not be so tight that the fabric puckers. Stiff fabric can survive tighter seams, but more delicate fabrics will absolutely pucker if you pull too hard, so adjust accordingly to your fabric.
- Hand sewing takes a lot of patience and concentration to learn. Remember to periodically take breaks to rest your eyes and stretch your wrists/shoulders/neck.
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