Everyday wear for the warrior class - Nagakamishimo and Hankamishimo

(as worn by samurai of the Edo period - great charts by Nadeshico Rin). You can find more about samurai ranks and their regulated attires under the tag “samurai kimono”.

The Nagakamishimo (here with noshime)

長上下 Nagakamishimo was worn by all upper ranked samurai.

• 肩衣 Kataginu - sleeveless overvest, with startched shoulders. It bore back and shoulder 紋 mon (family crests).
  It’s said to be an evolution of 素襖 Suô attire with detached sleeves.
  Formal ones were also entirely covered with tiny dyed patterns, the 小紋 komon (clans tended to have their favourite ones, used by all their retainers).
• 長袴 Nagabakama - hakama pants with long trailing legs.
  Formal look required it to match the kataginu.
• 熨斗目 Noshime - kosode (=ancestor of the kimono) with stripes or lattice pattern at waist area. Note the mon family crest on the sleeves and back.
  Noshime was also worn under more formal sets, like the daimon, suô, hoi, etc.
• 小さ刀 Chîsagatana - small katana

The Hankamishimo

Also called 継上下 tsugi-gamishimo, 半上下 hankamishimo is the official everyday wear for all Edo period samurai.

Main difference with nagakamishimo are the shorter pants, far more suited to everyday life. Colors and fabrics were not especially regulated.

• 半袴 Hanbakama - ankle lenght pants, shorter than the more formal nagabakama. Today, it’s simply called hakama.
• 脇差 Wakizashi - short sword worn by samurai​, depending on the era is part of the 大小 daishô (sword set with a katana and wakizashi)
• 紋付小袖 Montsuki-kosode - kosode (=ancestor of the kimono) adorned with family crest